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It is a peculiarity of these Belmond train journeys that, although in theory you have plenty of time to do nothing at all, the days and nights fill up without any deliberate effort on your part and rattle by with never a dull moment. Magic tricks were performed in the Piano Bar along with Nanyang jazz and hypnotic traditional Malayan music for the sape and gambus. I promised myself I would find someone to teach me mahjong but in the end the closest I got to a board game was preventing a fellow passenger from…